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J.H. Cutler Bespoke Tailor & Shirt Maker Est. 1884

What is Bespoke Tailoring

Posted by Carl Sciarra on

“Tailor” is a serious title & “bespoke" is a sacred term, the true meanings of which, refer to a very specific and traditional method of producing something. A tailor is a qualified artisan who specialises in either cutting and fitting, coat and waistcoat making or trouser making. Bespoke is when something is entirely custom made from the ground up, to an individuals exact specifications and with the highest standard of hand made craftsmanship.
Combining them together, bespoke tailoring is to exclusively make tailored garments for each individual customer with the finest hand made quality, according to their personal style and requirements, and that fit their unique body shape with the highest distinction. This is the essence of why bespoke tailoring is considered the ultimate sartorial experience.
Bespoke tailoring is often confused with other custom suiting options in the market which are predominantly made to measure. Made to measure is when a garment is made by adjusting an existing fit to suit the individual customer, with the option to select fabric & basic style details. In most cases it is processed by a sales person with no tailoring qualifications and produced by a third party factory that specialise in the mass production of custom suiting. The quality of made to measure garments vary from entirely machine made with fused interlining to machine made with a floating canvas and hand finishing.
The best value made to measure options are generally found at genuine bespoke establishments who offer made to measure in addition to bespoke. The value is in being fitted by qualified tailors, with an excellent standard of quality and provenance. 

Creating bespoke tailoring successfully, requires an establishment to have an incredible depth of knowledge and expertise on the entire process, with qualified specialist tailors carrying out each stage in perfect harmony.

The process begins with the most important part, as it lays the foundation that the suit is built on. An astute analysis of the individual’s measurements, posture, shape, unique characteristics and preferences. With this information an exclusive pattern for each individual is drafted, and the making techniques required for the garment to fit the unique body shape beautifully are identified. 

Each tailored garment goes through a series of hand “basted” fittings, generally three, that allow the bespoke tailor to fine tune the fit at different stages as it advances toward completion. Inside and out only the finest materials and trimmings are used, which are stitched and moulded together by hand with extreme attention to detail. Veteran customers of bespoke tailoring understand this process intimately, as the personal relationship with their tailor grows closer and stronger with each commission.

At the end of the bespoke process, the customer has acquired something truly unique to themselves that has been made to an unparalleled standard. The pinnacle of luxury and the ultimate sartorial experience.

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